The Perennial Cooler

The dog days of summer are upon us, and the desire for a cooling beverage has become a necessity. I invite you to enjoy a Perennial Cooler, a cocktail that not only restores the bon vivant but teetotalers and youngsters alike.

The popularity of and attraction to nonalcoholic or “zero-proof” cocktails has skyrocketed. Some folks are looking for a lifestyle change, and overall, Generation Z is drinking alcohol significantly less than previous generations. Because of this trend, having a nonalcoholic cocktail selection is a mandatory part of any serious cocktail menu. The Perennial Cooler has been a feature on the nonalcoholic menu at Emeril’s since I joined the team in 2021, and it’s popular because of its bright effervescence and subtle complexity.

It’s invigorating to see the range of nonalcoholic spirits coming to the market to help develop these cocktails. I’m especially fond of the line of BARE products, which are textural and have a hint of spice while lacking some of the bitter, acrid flavors that are common in de-alcoholized products. It’s also refreshing to see some of the alternatives to alcoholic beverages becoming more prevalent in the market, such as adaptogen beverages and THC beverages. New Orleans produces some fantastic THC beverages that come in a range of delicious flavors; Crescent 9’s tropical flavor and Urban South’s lavender lemon come to mind especially. It would be exciting to mix these into some nonalcoholic or alcohol-alternative beverages, but this is currently outlawed in Louisiana.

Beyond flavor, when developing a nonalcoholic cocktail, it’s especially important to consider texture and mouthfeel, as the body provided by alcohol is absent, as is the “burn” that consumers are accustomed to when enjoying a traditional cocktail. Because of this, a nonalcoholic cocktail is liable to feel thin and drab on the palate. To combat this, adding elements like effervescence or capsicum can help to invigorate an otherwise lackluster beverage. When I’m developing my own nonalcoholic spirit substitutes in-house (à la The Aviary or Century Grand), I typically use a base of highly concentrated brewed black tea with lots of baking spice, vanilla, charred oak, and sometimes elements like banana or pineapple if I’m trying to mimic the flavor of something specific like aged rum. Regardless of what spirit I’m trying to emulate, I almost always add Szechuan peppercorns to provide a slow burn as well as the “anesthetic” feeling that is typically found in full-proof spirits.

While developing this recipe, I was inspired by the quintessential beverage of my youth: the Capri Sun Pacific Cooler. I love the nostalgic memory of running around on the soccer field in the Arizona sun anticipating what was, for me, the best part of the game: halftime! Admittedly, food and beverage has always interested me far more than sports, and I was always so excited when the ice-filled coolers opened to reveal the surprise of that day’s treats. This was my one of my first exposures to culture and community shared through food. I loved seeing what the other parents would pack. It was almost always different than the Puerto Rican fare I had at home and often gave me a huge orange wedge-crusted smile. I still occasionally treat myself to a pack of the silver pouches that brought me so much joy, but I wanted to create a more grown-up version of the beverage.

Using apple as the foundational flavor, with mint as the most obvious choice when it came to developing something “cooling,” I backed these flavors with coriander for a hint of sophistication. While effervescence and fresh citrus invigorate the palate enough that the booze is hardly missed, this cocktail welcomes a shot of Cheramie Rum or your favorite vodka easily.

Alexandria Bowler is the lead bartender at Emeril Lagasse’s flagship restaurant, Emeril’s, in New Orleans. Check out her glorious cocktail creations or make a reservation at emerilsrestaurant.com.