Story by Jennifer Stewart Kornegay
With a population of nearly 30,000, Fairhope, Alabama, may be a small city, but it boasts a big list of ways to unwind with its charming walkable downtown and soothing scenery courtesy of its spot cozied up to Mobile Bay. Folks flock to the coastal community for its culinary offerings, too, which blend low-key with highbrow in white-tablecloth dining rooms, seafood shacks fronting lazy backwaters, and everything in between.
EAT THIS NOW
Set in a former house on the edge of Fairhope’s downtown, Little Bird feels like home to James Beard Award semifinalist Chef Bill Briand; its name honors his mom, Virginia “Ginny” Eileen Briand (“Eileen” derives from the Irish for “little bird”), as do several menu items, including her favorite martini and her skillet cornbread. Little Bird’s welcoming service ensures every diner feels at home, but the dishes showing off Bill’s thoughtful approach to Gulf seafood and the harvests of local farmers keep them coming back. Among the selections, Bill’s version of West Indies Salad flies high. Created in the 1940s by Bill Bayley Sr. at his Bayley’s Seafood Restaurant across the bay in Theodore, Alabama, the traditional dish features silky shreds of sweet blue crabmeat in a simple mix of salt, pepper, vinegar, onion, vegetable oil, and ice water. Bill’s riff on this Alabama original brightens the crab’s sweetness with the addition of preserved lemon and fresh mint.
ESSENTIAL EATS & TASTY TOASTS
Brunch items at The Barn at Hope Farm
FUEL UP
Lined with antiques shops, women’s boutiques, and art galleries galore, Fairhope’s flower-basket–festooned downtown streets beg to be strolled, but first, you’ll need proper propellant. Start with a candy bar-inspired Milky Way Latte and White Chocolate Raspberry Scone from Latte Da, a coffee shop inside Page & Palette, a book and art-supply store anchoring a downtown corner. If you require something more filling, grab a table at Julwin’s, Baldwin County’s oldest restaurant (opened in 1945), where fat, cheesy omelets, big fluffy pancakes, and creamy Gouda grits topped with grilled Gulf shrimp provide a feast to break your fast. Get sweet with a cherry toaster pastry or biscuit board with whipped maple butter and seasonal preserves at The Barn at Hope Farm. And greet the day in a more leisurely way with brunch at Tamara’s Downtown. Choose from a dizzying array of eggs Benedict options, including an area-appropriate crab cake version. And the decision-making doesn’t stop there. Visit the build-your-own Bloody Mary Bar to add pickled veggies, hot sauce, and more to your drink. But be warned: This spot is a local and visitor favorite and doesn’t take reservations.
MIDDAY MEALS ALL OVER THE MAP
SIP, SAVOR & SOAK IN THE VIEW
CAN’T-SKIP SWEET TREATS
SURF & TURF
Snag one of the limited seats at Pearl, where seafood-centric offerings like tripletail swimming in miso-coconut broth, redfish with charred onion, and warm pimiento cheese topped with blue crab sparkle. But the real gems are the oysters, served raw with classic mignonette or crowned with crème fraîche and smoked trout roe, roasted in black garlic-chili butter, or golden-fried and tucked into a BLT sandwich. Landlubbers strike gold at Jesse’s in Magnolia Springs, Alabama. It’s a 25-minute drive away, but this spot’s premium steaks, like a fillet or dry-aged rib eye embellished with cognac-peppercorn demi-glace, prove well worth the trip.
CHECK-IN
With its small-town, unhurried pace, Fairhope invites visitors to relax, and Jubilee Suites’ luxurious yet laid-back vibe and waterfront location, including 200 feet of sandy beach, make it easy to RSVP “yes.” Some of its nine suites have full kitchens and others have kitchenettes; they all have either a balcony or patio. And when you wake, indulge in the included breakfast, all homemade by Jim Maloney, who co-owns the B&B with his wife, Dana—think cheese-filled quiches, blueberry muffins, cinnamon rolls, omelets, and fresh fruit.
SIP & SHOP
Grab some gourmet goodies like Maldon sea salt flakes and enticing preserves at Provision, a combo coffee-wine-specialty shop and café. Order a glass from the Bubble Bar to enjoy while you shop.
TAKE A PIECE OF YOUR TRIP HOME
Score antique glassware, dinnerware, and dining room furniture, plus vintage kitchen implements at Aubergine.
