Story by Daniel Schumacher | Recipe by Maggie Scales, Boulangerie, New Orleans
Whether you call it a bûche de Noël or a Yule log, this iconic Christmas cake is a showstopper.
The bûche de Noël was not part of Maggie Scales’ Christmas tradition growing up. When the pastry chef moved to New Orleans, she quickly learned what an important role it plays in south Louisiana holiday gatherings. This traditional French Christmas cake, also known as a Yule log, combines a light sponge cake rolled around a sweet filling (often buttercream, mousse, or whipped cream), which is then topped with chocolate ganache or buttercream and decorated with cookies or meringues to look like the Yule logs that were traditionally burnt on Christmas Eve to bring good luck in the new year.
In 2015, when the Link Restaurant Group took over the beloved Uptown bakery Boulangerie, Maggie got to take her crack at developing a Yule log that was worth waiting all year for. In her version, Maggie goes chocolate-chocolate-chocolate: chocolate sponge cake and a chocolate mousse filling enrobed in dark chocolate ganache. From December 1 through Christmas Eve, she and her team turn out hundreds of these iconic cakes, along with some by-the-slice options for casual shoppers.
Whether you’re a pro baker or more of a novice, don’t let the length of this recipe deter you—the outcome is well worth the effort, and most of the pieces can be made ahead, lessening the lift during the busy holiday season. The mousse and cookie dough, for instance, can be prepared up to a month ahead and frozen (and defrosted in the refrigerator before using), though you’ll want to give the Meringue Mushrooms only a few days in an airtight container on your counter. For Maggie, the different flavors of chocolate were an appropriate way to celebrate the Yule log tradition, but she also wanted to make sure to include some textural elements to improve the experience.
“I love, love, love meringues,” Maggie says, “and in New Orleans, we only have a very short window of opportunity where we can make meringues when they don’t become instantly sticky, so I knew [my bûche de Noël] was going to have meringue mushrooms. The little cookie leaves kind of fell into place because I knew I wanted crunch on there also.”
The bûche de Noël, like many cherished Louisiana traditions, has a firm end date that helps anchor us in the year. Maggie looks forward to the beginning of the season each year, and by the end, she is ready to move on. When asked if she enjoys a bûche at home for Christmas, she gives an enthusiastic yes. “My family does Thanksgiving here, and that’s kind of our big holiday,” Maggie says. “Then my husband and my kids and I, we will do Chinese food on Christmas Day because I’m so tired. I will bring home a Yule log that we can eat after all the fried food from the Chinese place.”
- 10 ounces bittersweet chocolate (see notes), chopped
- 2½ cups heavy whipping cream
- 2 large egg yolks
- ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
- 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons water
- 10 large egg whites
- 1 teaspoon cream of tartar
- 2 cups granulated sugar, divided
- 10 large egg yolks
- 1 cup cake flour
- ½ cup black cocoa powder (see notes)
- ½ teaspoon salt
- Dark Chocolate Ganache Frosting (recipe follows)
- Confectioners’ sugar
- Garnish: Meringue Mushrooms and Festive Sugar Cookies (recipes follow)
- ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon whole milk
- 2⅓ cups confectioners’ sugar
- 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- ⅔ cup unsalted butter
- 1 cup unsweetened chocolate chips
- ½ cup chopped semisweet chocolate
- 4 large egg whites
- ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
- 1 cup granulated sugar
- 1 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
- 1 cup granulated sugar
- 1 large egg
- 3 cups all-purpose flour
- ¾ teaspoon baking powder
- ¼ teaspoon salt
- 1 tablespoon milk
- Green and red gel food coloring
- Place a small saucepan with water over medium heat. In a small heatproof bowl, place the chopped chocolate on top of the saucepan. Let melt slowly, stirring occasionally. When melted, turn off the heat, but leave the bowl over the pot to stay warm.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer or with a hand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream at medium-high speed to soft peaks. Transfer the whipped cream to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.
- Place the egg yolks in a clean bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, and whip at medium-high speed.
- While the egg yolks are whipping, place the sugar and water in a small saucepan, and stir together so the mixture resembles wet sand. Put the pan over medium-low heat, and have a candy or instant-read thermometer ready. Cook until the sugar mixture reaches 235° to 238° (soft-ball stage); then, with the mixer on low, slowly stream the hot sugar mixture into the whipping egg yolks. Continue beating until the mixture is completely cool.
- With a rubber spatula, scrape the yolk mixture into a large bowl. Slowly fold in the cooled chocolate mixture, mixing thoroughly. In three batches, gently fold the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture. Use immediately, or store in a container in the refrigerator until ready to use. Let stand until room temperature before using.
- Preheat oven to 325°.
- Spray a rimmed 18x13-inch baking sheet with cooking spray, and line with parchment paper.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat egg whites and cream of tartar at medium speed until foamy. Gradually add 1 cup sugar, beating until glossy and stiff peaks form. Transfer to a large bowl.
- Beat the egg yolks and remaining 1 cup sugar in the same mixer bowl fitted with the whisk attachment at medium-high speed until light and fluffy. Transfer to the bowl with the egg white mixture; do not stir together.
- Sift the flour, cocoa, and salt over the egg mixture. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold together just until combined, being careful not to deflate the eggs. Spread the batter onto three-fourths of the prepared pan in an even layer, using an offset spatula. (Reserve any remaining batter for another use, like making cupcakes or a small cake.)
- Bake until center is firm, about 10 minutes. Let cool slightly. Starting at 1 short end and using both hands, roll up the cake, jelly roll style. Let cool, rolled, for 30 minutes.
- Gently unroll the cake, and lay flat. Spread the chocolate mousse over the cake, leaving a 1-inch border. Starting at 1 short side, tightly reroll the cake. Transfer to a baking sheet, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to overnight.
- Spread Dark Chocolate Ganache Frosting over the cake with an offset spatula, and score with a knife to give the frosting a treelike appearance. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar and garnish as desired with Meringue Mushrooms and Festive Sugar Cookies.
- Place a small saucepan with water over medium heat.
- Combine milk, confectioners’ sugar, light corn syrup, and vanilla in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Mix at high speed until smooth and no lumps of sugar remain, about 6 minutes.
- While mixing, place the butter and chocolates in a medium heatproof bowl over the warm pot of water. Let melt together, whisking occasionally.
- With the mixer off, pour the warm chocolate mixture into the whipped sugar-milk mixture. Whisk on low speed until well emulsified and shiny, about 4 minutes.
- Transfer the ganache to a bowl or container, and refrigerate overnight. Before using, let stand at room temperature until spreadable.
- Preheat oven to 250°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites at medium speed until foamy. Add the cream of tartar, and continue beating until stiff peaks form. Gradually add the sugar, beating at medium speed until combined.
- Spoon the meringue into a pastry bag fitted with an Ateco #808 piping tip, and pipe mushroom tops and feet onto the prepared pan. Bake until dry and firm, about 1 hour.
- Store in airtight containers, with parchment paper between layers, until ready to use.
- To assemble mushrooms, use a small sharp knife to poke a small hole in the bottom of each mushroom cap, being careful not to cut through the top. Insert a stem into each hole. (If cap will not hold in place, secure with a dab of ganache.)
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar at medium speed until fluffy and light.
- Add the egg, beating at medium speed until combined, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Reduce the mixer speed to low. Add the flour, baking powder, salt, and milk, beating until combined.
- Divide the dough in half. Knead the green food coloring into one portion and the red food coloring into the remaining portion. Wrap each portion in plastic wrap, and refrigerate until ready to use.
- Let the dough stand at room temperature until slightly softened.
- Preheat oven to 325°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
- On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to a ½-inch thickness. Using leaf- and berry-shaped cutters, cut the dough, rerolling scraps as necessary. Place on the prepared pan.
- Bake until edges are lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Let cool. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
